Salerno by Chef Pirozzi serves up authentic flavors with warm hospitality at this downtown Italian bistro.
By Sharon Stello
Delicate, homemade pasta paired with rich, flavorful sauces—as well as other authentic dishes and a curated wine list—come together with a charming, cozy ambience for a delightful dinner at Salerno by Chef Pirozzi.
Born in Naples, Italy, chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi learned to cook with his grandmother, Nonna Ida. He was the youngest of four children (and the only boy) and would often take refuge in his grandmother’s kitchen whenever the girls were teasing him. In this sanctuary, Pirozzi fell in love with cooking and learned many traditional techniques and secret family recipes, putting him on the path to later train to become a chef.
Pirozzi owns two restaurants in Laguna Beach, Alessa by Chef Pirozzi on Forest Avenue, and Salerno, which he bought eight years ago, on Beach Street. Formerly called Polina’s Salerno, he completely revamped the menu after taking over. The eatery now includes a wooden patio in front, like the parklets on The Promenade on Forest, which have remained since the pandemic.
Choose a seat inside or out and peruse the wine list, which includes Italian selections as well as vino from Napa Valley, Santa Barbara, Paso Robles and other prime regions. Or choose a cocktail like the Positano Sunset with vodka, peach puree, prosecco and Aperol, or the Italian margarita with silver tequila, homemade limoncello, amaretto and fresh lime juice.
Sip your drink while indulging in the simple yet tantalizing salsa verde, a dip made of 11 herbs, Parmesan and capers, served with warm bread. Then begin the meal with a salad or appetizer. The refreshing burrata e tomato is a perfect summer starter. Light and bursting with flavor, the plate comes with slices of heirloom tomatoes, arugula, burrata, basil, Castelvetrano olives and herb-infused extra-virgin olive oil.
Next choose some pasta—a difficult task as they’re all divine and almost all of the pasta is made in house. One of Pirozzi’s specialties is the Zucca, which is house-made, organic butternut squash and ricotta ravioli served with a brown butter sage sauce and amaretto cookie crumbles. While butternut squash is typically a fall flavor, this dish is one you’ll crave year-round.
The scampi ravioli is another top choice: These delectable bites are stuffed with shrimp scampi and infused with limoncello. Garlic, shallots, Meyer lemon and Italian white wine are also incorporated and the sauce is dotted with cherry tomatoes, adding an extra layer of brightness to the citrus. Four different kinds of gnocchi, or potato dumplings, are also offered. From a pink sauce to five cheese, you can’t go wrong. The creamy pesto option, made without nuts, is particularly delicious. For a heartier plate, try the Bolognese, a robust meat sauce served atop pappardelle pasta; the freshness can be tasted in each bite. Another unique option is the rosemary infused pappardelle cacio e pepe made with black pepper and pecorino cheese.
While the array of pastas could satisfy many diners, don’t overlook the meat and seafood dishes. Guests would be remiss to pass up a special that can be requested: tender filet mignon cut into medallions, cooked with rosemary and served with an amaretto cherry port reduction. The rosemary perfectly accents the savory meat and balances with the sweet cherry sauce. Expect a few minutes of silence at the table as everyone revels in the flavors.
And don’t forget to leave room for dessert. The gelato and sorbet sampler is light enough to enjoy even if you’re stuffed after dinner. It’s the perfect sweet treat to end the evening.
Salerno by Chef Pirozzi
220 N. Beach St.
949-497-2600; salernolb.com
