Local culinary experts reveal how family recipes have shaped their menus.
By Ashley Ryan
When it comes to family traditions, one of the best ways to keep them alive is through food. Whether it’s a long-established recipe followed down to a T, a classic dish that has been jazzed up or a collaborative effort created by family members from different generations, one way to show love for your ancestors is by keeping your culture and customs at the forefront.
“Family is everything—it’s the foundation of life, the anchor that keeps you grounded and safe,” says Alessandro Pirozzi, executive chef and owner of both Alessa by Chef Pirozzi and Salerno by Chef Pirozzi. “It makes you who you are.”
Family recipes passed down through generations provide a glimpse into the personal histories and cultural backgrounds of Laguna Beach’s chefs and restaurateurs. They are more than simple ingredients and instructions—they tell stories of love and offer a sense of belonging and togetherness that transcends place and time.
By exploring our culinary heritage through the groundwork that our ancestors have laid out, we’re better able to bridge the gap between traditional and contemporary flavors and techniques. Our roots are important in shaping our future: Every dish we re-create tells a story of familial bond, touches upon special moments from our past or allows us to connect with who we are, and every tweak to a family recipe allows our roots to dig in a little bit deeper as we keep our loved ones’ memories alive.
Alessandro Pirozzi
Alessa by Chef Pirozzi, Salerno by Chef Pirozzi
As a native of Naples, Italy, it’s no surprise that Pirozzi’s menus are heavily inspired by his family’s culinary traditions. In fact, he started cooking with his grandmother when he was only 4 years old. Though knives were off limits in his youth, he mastered other techniques, like harvesting vegetables from the garden and roasting garlic to put into a homemade ragu sauce.
Sharing recipes was definitely a form of love for his grandmother, or nonna, as well as other relatives. “It’s mandatory—it’s like a language, religion or belief,” Pirozzi explains. “Passing down recipes preserves cultural heritage and family history.”
Through his simple yet pleasant life in Italy, where he was always surrounded by family, Pirozzi has learned that the best menus are straightforward but full of flavor. Braised meats, seafood and, of course, pastas all permeate his restaurants, inspired by his Neapolitan roots. Growing up, he recalls that they were limited in their ingredients, often relying on only flour, eggs and water to create something delicious. As such, his time-honored pastas remain a highlight.
Sharing his loved one’s recipes—which include everything from Spaghetti Verde, Zucca ravioli and limoncello-infused taglierini to branzino and burrata e tomato carpaccio—has allowed him to offer a piece of his own traditions to diners in Laguna while also showcasing the cuisine of Naples without the requirement of a passport. A number of other dishes, like the Nonna Ida’s Lasagna and Nonna Titina’s Recipe Potato Dumplings, are also inspired by and named for the chef’s grandmothers.
“I cherish the[se] dish[es] … like a piece of art created from scratch,” he notes. “The passion, technique and experience shared with family make … [them] special. Diners appreciate the authenticity and connection to tradition.”
While Pirozzi learned to cook in his grandmother’s kitchen, he also underwent formal culinary training. But, he says, it’s all connected. “Although the techniques differ, the essence remains the same: Focus on family traditions, use quality ingredients and embrace simplicity,” he explains. “While culinary school promotes complexity, family cooking teaches that less is often more. The key is simplicity—using basics like salt, pepper, fresh herbs, oregano and extra-virgin olive oil.”
Making these recipes, using the same ingredients that he used with his grandmother, always reminds him of the memories he’s made with his loved ones. “It takes me on a culinary journey down memory lane, recalling family meals in Naples,” Pirozzi says.
Ivan Spiers
Mozambique, Skyloft, Bodega Laguna Cocina & Cantina, Rumari
Growing up in Durban, South Africa, restaurateur Ivan Spiers learned plenty about cuisine from his family during his childhood—and it opened his eyes to a culinary world that spans much of the globe, yet retains distinctly unique elements as well. “South Africa had a lot of Irish, English, Dutch, African, Indian and Malaysian influence,” he explains.
When he came to the United States more than 30 years ago and decided to launch his own restaurant, he knew that he wanted it to be distinctly South African—something that Laguna Beach didn’t have. It’s been nearly two decades since Spiers opened the doors to Mozambique, yet traditional dishes and ingredients are still prominent on its varied menu. He worked closely with the opening chefs to ensure that the food served resembled dishes he enjoyed overseas with his family and that they would be appealing to diners in America as well.
One thing that greatly impacted his menu choices was the tradition of the African braai fleis, which is a South African tradition used for birthdays, holidays and other special occasions. More than a simple barbecue, this custom features a full-on feast with grilled meats cooked over an open flame, cultural sides and drinks like beer, wine or cocktails. These backyard celebrations inspired Spiers to include peri-peri sauce in both the peri-peri tiger prawns and the peri-peri chicken dishes.
“We import all the bird’s eye chile [used in the peri-peri sauce] from Africa—it’s the only place you can buy it,” Spiers notes. “The dishes are received exceptionally well. It took awhile, but after 20 years, we sell a ton. The sauce and preparation is our secret recipe. The chicken and prawns are wood-fired—charbroiled; the sauce is added while you cook it.”
The peri-peri sauce infiltrates the menu in more ways than one, also served with the calamari, seafood platter, prego steak sandwich and Mozambique shrimp scampi. While Spiers guards his precise family recipe—which combines the bird’s eye chiles with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and a secret, specialized blend of spices—diners can stop by to try his South African creations.
Nick Gstrein
The Drake
For Nick Gstrein, sous chef at The Drake, family is a pivotal part of his life. “Family, to me, means history,” he explains. “You want to honor those who have come before you [and] remember the past, but also make a name for future generations.”
Gstrein’s father, Paul, is also a chef, so he grew up in the kitchen watching his dad work. Whether it was back in Austria at his family’s hotel or at nearby eateries like Bayside Restaurant in Newport Beach or Bistango in Irvine, he says that being in those culinary environments inspired him to develop his own skills and desire to cook.
“It just built a foundation—a love and passion for culinary [arts],” he explains. “I always knew that after football was done, I was going to hang up the cleats and helmet and pick up a knife.”
Now, Gstrein works with his dad—who is executive chef and partner at The Drake—on a regular basis. “Like any job, it has its ups and downs—especially working with family,” he says. “But … you always want to work for somebody who has knowledge and has been around the block a few times. I think working with my dad has … taught me a lot.”
Being of Austrian descent, Gstrein notes that he has traveled to Austria roughly 20 times. “Growing up, whether we went for a week or two weeks or three, the meals were always planned out,” he says. “My grandma was always the cook, and schnitzel was always a big request.”
He would help her pound out the meat and prepare the family meal—however, they never used recipes. “Writing out a recipe feels very foreign,” Gstrein explains. “As I’m sure is the case with a lot of grandmas, there is no recipe. She’s just done it 1,000 times.”
Although the dish isn’t on the regular menu, Gstrein and his father often incorporate it as an Oktoberfest special, available from late September through the first few weeks of October; it can also be special ordered while dining in. Traditional schnitzel is crafted with veal, but at The Drake, the father-son duo use Iberico pork to modernize and elevate the meal. After coating it and putting it in the fryer, Gstrein says that he must pay close attention to cook it to where the crust separates slightly from the meat. The result is a sweet, savory dish with a hint of saltiness that he says checks all of the boxes, with the acidic tang from the potato and sweetness from a lingonberry preserve.
They incorporate this special to keep their traditions alive. “Cooking in my grandma’s kitchen as a child was one of my fondest memories growing up—whether I was going to be a chef or not,” Gstrein explains. “I think you cherish those moments for the rest of your life and hopefully pass them on down to your own children.”
Oma Gita’s Austrian Schnitzel
Servings: 4
4 boneless pork (or veal) chops
Salt, for seasoning
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 eggs
3 cups breadcrumbs
3 cups vegetable oil or lard
1 tablespoon butter
1 lemon wedge, for garnish
1 jar of lingonberry preserves, for garnish
Place the pork chops between two layers of plastic wrap on the countertop. Using a mallet, pound them until they are 1/4-inch thick. Season both sides with salt. Prepare three different bowls to dredge each pork chop—one each of flour, whisked eggs and breadcrumbs. Dip in the flour, ensuring it’s fully coated, then place into the egg mixture and, finally, coat evenly with breadcrumbs. Pour the oil into a large skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch. (This should be a shallow fry.) Heat the oil to 350 F over medium-high heat, adjusting the heat source as needed to maintain temperature. Add the butter right before the meat goes in for added flavor. Fry the chops in the hot oil for 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until they are golden brown and crisp. Depending on the size of your skillet, you may need to work in batches to avoid overcrowding. After frying, salt the schnitzel immediately after removing from the pan. Serve hot, garnished with lemon wedges and lingonberry preserves.
—Courtesy of Nick Gstrein of The Drake
